The Gigantic Dunes de Pyla Near Bordeaux

Just minutes from Biscarosse, the enormous Dunes de Pyla loom over the Atlantic. The fine sandy beaches of the seaside resort of Archachon are bordered by the highest dunes in Europe. The sand is devouring the pine forest, slowly inching inland, swallowing the trees alive, as Thomas liked to say. Apparently there are some ill-positioned campsites and restaurants that are at risk of becoming covered.

We panted our way up to the top of the dune, slipping and sliding our way through the sand. The views from the top are stupendous: on one side, the ocean rolls out to the horizon; on the other, the pine forest stretches like a green carpet, far below. In the distance, dozens of colorful paragliders soared over the dunes and surf. (The way down is more fun. Pierre rolled in somersaults; Thomas's brother sprinted in giant strides; I leaped.)

On our first day, I went for a walk down the beach to check out the dunes, while the boys got all creative and constructed a massive driftwood sculpture, decorated with shells and refuse they found on the sand. We watched the sun sink to the edge of the Atlantic, the colors reflected in the sand at the edge of the sea. It was quiet here at the Bassin d'Archachon, the water was still and wave-less, but we could hear the roar of the ocean-- and see the white caps-- to the south.


The second day on the beach was devoted to fishing. We promised to bring home a cooler of freshly-caught fish for dinner. Thomas's father was skeptical and pulled his own fish from the freezer to thaw. It was a good thing, since we didn't catch a thing. Instead, as the boys rigged the rods, Pierre stepped on a dangerous poisonous fish in the shallows, buried in the sand, which shot a poison barb into his foot. We checked out a book later to identify the fish and it was a nasty-looking little beast.


Pictured: You can just make out the erosion patterns in the sand above the doomed pine trees. Like a mini-Grand Canyon.