Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Monday, April 23, 2007

Presidential Election in France: Ségo vs. Sarko


France is buzzing with la politique. The Presidential election has generated unprecedented interest across the country-- from cosmopolitan Paris to the smallest, quaint villages. There was massive voter participation in the first round yesterday; 85-87% of France's registered voters cast ballots, a mind-boggling turn-out. Bloggers had their fingers on the pulse of the national mood (as France is a country of bloggers, with the highest per capita number of bloggers worldwide), describing the popular fixation on the race. As folks frantically sought news of the election-- through SMS, MSN messenger, blogs, traditional news sources like TV and radio, every available technology-- blogs went down because of the high levels of traffic.

Pierre's family voted ensemble in La Chapelle-Saint-Laurent. The voting system seemed simple and fool-proof. Candidates names were printed in bold letters on 12 separate pieces of paper. Each voter shuffled through the line to select the papers, ducked into a voting booth, slipped the piece of paper with their chosen candidate into an envelope, and then dropped the envelope into the ballot box after showing their official election registration card and signing the voter list.

But we noticed something strange at this small regional voting outpost: José Bové's name was missing from the stacks of votes outside the booths. Voters had a choice of only 11 of the 12 candidates. And in France, voters are not allowed to write in the names of candidates as we are in the U.S. (A safety precaution against election fraud.) I have been fascinated by the French election in comparison with the U.S. system. I have been impressed with the leveling of the playing field: the limits on campaign spending, the careful mediation of media attention, the absence of political ads on TV (what a relief to not have to suffer through a season of attack ads).

But it seemed strange that Bové's name was missing from the candidate list because-- apparently-- he didn't bother to provide the funds for it. (Note: For the photo at right, Pierre dashed out to the car to grab a Bové ballot. Each French voter receives a stack of ballots in the mail, along with literature on each candidate. The brochures are the same exact size, the same paper quality-- another example of the leveled playing field.)

France is passionate about politics. But the record numbers at the polls yesterday were not a sign of passion for a particular candidate. Indeed, news outlets were predicting a toss-up ("Anything can happen!") because of the large numbers of undecided voters. Pierre was still debating his choice minutes before he dropped his vote in the ballot box. Rather, many French citizens wanted to avoid a repeat of the embarrassing 2002 election, when Le Pen succeeded in advancing to the second round because the left's voting block was split by myriad smaller candidates. This time, many voters from the left banded together to cast their vote for the Socialist Ségolène Royal and assure that Le Pen could not advance to the next round. (Le Pen has a loyal contingent of voters. He received 10.5% of the vote yesterday.)

I've been disappointed in the NY Times coverage of the race because of their failure to talk about Bayrou, the centrist candidate, who came in third yesterday with 18.8% of the vote. For me, Bayrou has become a symbol of French dissatisfation with the traditional, competing left-right divide in politics. Bayrou, the independent with roots on the farm, offered a new, non-partisan way of governing, bridging the gap between parties.

Let the show-down begin. In two weeks, after the run-off election on May 6, France will determine its future course, perhaps with its first woman president.

Update: Electoral malfunctions are not limited to the grand state of Florida. It turns out that La Chapelle Saint-Laurent's votes were disqualified because of the mix-up with Bové's ballots. C'est dommage.

9 Comments:

  • At 12:50 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Hello

    I am "lauren_tn" from Tennessee in the U.S. I did not find an email link on your blog so I am using this comment section to leave a message for you.

    I began taking university French courses a few years ago and am currently working on a masters degree that is interdisciplinary in nature and combines women's studies and French. I am very interested in French language and culture. I studied in Paris with a university summer abroad program during the summer of 2002. Last summer I returned to France to do some research for my thesis/project on the subject of George Sand. I am curious as to how you came to live in France?

    Best wishes!

     
  • At 1:47 PM, Blogger MWN said…

    Lauren, Thanks so much for checking out my blog! Your masters thesis project sounds excellent. (I'd like to read more George Sand...) Are you currently living in France? Or will you be returning here for more coursework?

    I live in France as my boyfriend, Pierre, works here in Limoges. I'm lucky that my work as a writer has allowed me some flexibility! I've enjoyed taking language classes at the university here, learning both the language and culture. Out of curiosity-- how did you find my blog?

    Many thanks and best wishes,
    MWN

     
  • At 6:08 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Thanks so much for your response!

    I am currently stateside. I will complete my masters this summer and then I am hoping to teach. Hopefully I would have my summers free from academic responsibilities as I would really love to come back to France and spend some more time immersing myself in the language and culture.

    I actually found your blog when I was doing a Google search for "french election - arrondissement breakdown." I was curious as to how each arrondissement in Paris voted. Your blog address was the fourth listing on the search results. I never did find the voting breakdown!

    It's great that you have job flexibility as a writer! Have you ever read the book Almost French? Sarah Turnbull, the author, was also a writer.

     
  • At 2:34 PM, Blogger MWN said…

    Lauren, Good luck with the completion of your studies. Summers in France are indeed magical. What a great plan! Will you return to Paris, or another region?

    Thanks for the details about how you found my blog...

    Yes, I've read Almost French. Absolutely adored that book! Adam Gopnik's "Paris to the Moon" is another wonderful read about the ex-pat life in the capital.

     
  • At 6:39 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    I am not sure if I will return to Paris or explore a new region. I really REALLY love Paris. Even though it is a huge city, it has a hometown feel. I stayed in the 12 eme (rue Daumesnil) in 2002 and in the 11eme (near the Bastille) in 2006. In 2002, I visited Etretat, Giverney, and Versailles with the university group. I also took the train to Agen and visited some friends in Nerac, a little town between Bordeaux and Toulouse. In 2006, I was only in Paris and Nohant.

    I live on a small farm in Tennessee and I would really like to see more of rural France. I saw a DVD a while back (Etre et Avoir) that was truly amazing. It was about a teacher named Georges Lopez that taught school in Auvergne.

    A friend recently recommended Paris to the Moon. She had great things to say about it. The Piano Shop on the Left Bank by Carhart is another fun read.

    This "attraction" that I have for the French language and culture is really odd. There seems to be something on the inside of me that is a driving force to learn more about the language and culture. According to family history, my maternel grandmother was of French descent. Her last name was DeBord. Perhaps it is the spirit of my ancesters that calls me to France. *smile*

    I am sure that I have a "romanticized" view and only see France through the eyes of a tourist. But I like the things that I have seen and the things that I have read about: working 35 hour per week, the health care system, the love for the arts and history, food that is simpler and more natural.

    Wow. Now I am really nostalgic. I miss the metro, the markets, and Monoprix!

    I am taking a course this semester on Baudelaire and Les Fleurs du Mal. It has been an amazing class. Finals are next week so I am in the thick of things.

    Take care, MWN.

     
  • At 12:42 PM, Blogger MWN said…

    No, I don't think you have a "romanticized" tourist view of France; it's easy to become enchanted by the genuine "joie de vivre" experienced here-- the lingering Sunday meals with family and friends, the slower pace, the fascination with politics (intellectual debates in the smallest bars in the tiniest villages) and preservation of history and culture. I certainly have! (And-- like you-- I simply adore Paris.)

    Good luck with your finals and keep me posted on your next voyage en France...

     
  • At 7:33 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Thanks for the good wishes.

    One final question and I'll leave you be for a while. Have you found that you feel "out of place" in France? I was looking at a selection of the book "French Toast" by Rochefort at amazon.com and she states, "French Toast grew out of two decades of living in France with a French husband, a full-scale French family-in-law, two half-French half-American children, and a French stepson. Rather than just gently fading into the French culture - that is, adapting - I have come to realize that I feel more and more American." What has your experience been? Please forgive me if this question is addressed else where on your blog. Although I have read some entries, I have not read them all. I hope to get caught up after exams.

    I really appreciate your most recent blog entry about the small nesting bird. C'était vraiment gentil.

     
  • At 9:47 AM, Blogger MWN said…

    C'est une bonne question. And I think one that most expats grapple with. I find myself romanticizing aspects of American life while in France, and vice versa when visiting the U.S. (pining for France). Sort of a strange limbo, living a citizen-less state. And yes, there are moments when I've definitely felt out of place here! Ultimately, living abroad forces me to define my own identity as an American; it helps shed light on what it means to be American.

     
  • At 11:49 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Great answer!

     

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