Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Wine-tasting in the Deux-Sèvres


Believe it or not, there are vineyards in the Deux-Sèvres. In a country famed for its big wine-producing regions-- Rhone, the Loire, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Alsace, Languedoc, and Champagne, of course-- there are enclaves where smaller producers create tasty varietals. The Romans introduced the art of wine-making to Gaul, and the monks-- God bless 'em-- kept the tradition alive during the Middle Ages. Today small family-owned vignerons like Arnault & Fils continue the art.

One of my favorite things to do on a visit to La Chapelle Saint-Laurent is to accompany Pierre's father on one of his wine-buying missions to Arnault & Fils (Le Pressoir a Cales). Just south of Angers and the Loire Valley, not far from Bressuire in Bouillé-Loretz, Arnault & Fils has produced its wines for four generations. Appellations represented are: Anjou Blanc, Anjou Rouge, Rosé de Loire, Crémant de Loire, Cabernet d'Anjou, and Anjou Village.

The sun is shining and the fields surrounding the winery are abloom with wildflowers. Outside the family's house, a wooden mailbox has been adopted by a small nesting bird. A polite sign is tacked nearby: "Please do not deliver the mail here, as the mailbox is now occupied." We duck into the cool tasting room where the walls are plastered with ancient posters and wine paraphernalia. Pierre's father grins and we clink our glasses together in a toast. My favorite is the delicious, sweet rosé: Cabernet d'Anjou. I like the idea of buying locally. We stock up on inexpensive bottles and boxes, but I hope we'll be back soon.

Arnault & Fils Vignerons.
79290 Bouillé-Loretz
Tel: 05 49 67 04 85
Open Monday-Saturday, 9-12; 2-6 p.m.

2 Comments:

  • At 6:47 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    a link...
    http://www.pays-thouarsais.com/article.php3?id_article=1161

     
  • At 11:34 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Yeah someone has found our little piece of heaven in the Deux Sevres. Absouletely adore visting the producers in our area and have brought samples back to Scotland for our friends to enjoy.

    Bressuire maison secondaire resident:-)

     

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