Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

The Villages of the Dordogne: Domme and Beynac-et-Cazenac


The rural region of the PĂ©rigord, land of foie gras and truffles, is one of my favorite places to visit. And I'm not alone. In the last few decades, the Dordogne has become one of the hottest tourist destinations in France. Dotted with charming medieval hamlets and imposing chateaux, the Dordogne is also celebrated as one of the prehistoric cradles of civilization. The 14,000-years-old cave drawings in the Lascaux caves are world-famous.

From Sarlat (where we stuffed ourselves with candied walnuts and treats from the market, comme d'habitude), we drove along the river and discovered village after enchanting village-- from La Roque Gageac to the clifftop village of Domme, both members of the association of the "most beautiful villages in France." The panorama from Domme's esplanade is breathtaking. It's a good place to stop for lunch.

Next stop: Beynac-et-Cazenac, topped by a formidable 13th century castle, facing the Castlenaud fortress across the river, an English stronghold during the Hundred Years War. It's easy to see why forces battled so violently. (As one of the English women in my French class said, "France has the most beautiful terroir in the world!") It's a hefty climb to the top, but worth it. Interesting to note that Luc Besson chose to film his Joan of Arc movie, The Messenger, here in Beynac.




Pictures date from our last visit in September. Domme is featured in the top two images; Beynac, the bottom.

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