Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Sunday, March 18, 2007

Exploring the Dordogne: La Roque Gageac

Not far from Sarlat-La-Canéda-- the Medieval sandstone city described as the Perigord's "most beautiful city, a jewel of preservation" (Sixty Million Frenchmen Can't Be Wrong)-- the smaller hamlet of La Roque Gageac will take your breath away. Perched dramatically in the cliffs above the River Dordogne, the tan houses seem to blend in with the sandstone. In fact, many of the houses are built into the sheer rock face, incorporating the cliff into their construction.

The Fort Troglodyte, which dates from Medieval times, commands an excellent position above the winding river. There is a narrow footpath leading up the hill into the town, from where you can peer into gardens and marvel at the village's construction. The views of the Dordogne aren't too shabby either.


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