Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Monday, January 15, 2007

Winter Wonderland



On December 23, we drove north from Limoges to Partheney, in the Deux-Sevres departement. I've driven this road countless times, and the landscape is quite familiar: rolling green hills punctuated with small villages (each with their medieval church, of course). I can pinpoint all the landmarks along the way, including exactly when the nuclear reactors will loom into view. But on this trip, these familiar landscapes were breathtakingly beautiful and I kept gasping with delight. Arm extended out the window, I couldn't stop taking pictures.

The fields were dusted with white frost, and the trees were encased in a dazzling sheath of ice. It looked like snow, but the skies were blue and we hadn't seen any real weather change in weeks. And for a few fleeting days, we experienced real winter. Cold, biting wind, greyish skies, a world painted in white. Now the days are spring-like and warm and for the first time in my life, I'm actually wishing for another taste of the winter we lost too soon.

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