Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Thursday, January 11, 2007

Colorful Christmas Kitsch in Limoges



Limoges really got dolled up this year for the holidays. Not just garlands of twinkling lights and the ubiquitous Pere Noel dolls seen dangling from upper-storey windows all across France. But a wildly entertaining citywide display of artistic animals, fashioned from colorful lights.



In centre ville, a slew of these critters are positioned around the Place Denis Dussoubs. Outside my favorite local brewery, a strange marmot-squirrel hybrid is perched on a giant log. Opposite the traffic circle, an enormous bear faces the oncoming cars. The elephant stands proudly with trunk in a salute. There's even a giraffe... all lit in bright white lights.

But the best part of all has to be the giant, feathered peacock a-glittering above the fountain on Place Carnot. Draped in green and blue lights, this big bird is quite a sight. Apparently, the peacock is a source of great pride for the residents of Limoges. And I can understand why. I can't stop giggling/smiling every time I walk by it.


We will be graced with this good kitsch for another few weeks, I'm sure. Everyone's too tied up with Les Soldes (the semi-annual sales which spawns French frenzy and makes the US post-Thanksgiving Black Friday look tame) to bother bugging the city about their removal. But I already miss the Christmas shop windows, as beautiful in their design (and as welcome a sight) as wrapped presents under the tree.

1 Comments:

  • At 1:37 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    A verey interesting site. I would however that referring to Christmas as "the holidays" is very American. Kimoges does not celebrate "the Holidays" it celbrates the birth of Christ i.e. Christmas.

    Keep up the good work.

     

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