Cirque de Gavarnie: Walking in the Pyrenees

On December 30 we drove south to the isolated villages around Gavarnie near the Spanish border. As we climbed the winding (and stomach-turning) roads, the views were heartstopppingly beautiful: the rugged peaks of the Pyrenees, waterfalls tumbling from cliffs, small villages nestled in valleys amidst all that grandeur. Evidence of serious landslides and avalanches was everywhere. Huge boulders were strewn across pastures, as if pebbles thrown by giants. At one point on this treacherous road, there is a high-tech motion sensor which can detect even the slightest motion from the cliffs above. (Within seconds, it triggers a red light signal on the road.)

Just on the other side of the mountains is Spain's Parque Nacional de Ordesa where we hiked last summer. Monte Perdido, quite characteristically, was hidden from view. The hiking here, at Cirque de Gavernie, is some of the best in the world. I hope to return this summer for some days exploring the exquisite park that straddles the international border.

We walked along a stream (the swift current edged with ice) and then enjoyed a picnic in the sunshine. Cheese, bread, and single-sized portions of gateau basque, purchased from the bakery in Cauterets. Not a cloud in the sky, and when the blasts of wind calmed, it was actually quite warm.