Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Monday, November 26, 2007

Jardin du Luxembourg: Smitten with Paris Gardens


Another dreary, misty day in Limoges so I'm daydreaming about sunny days in the Jardin du Luxembourg. I am always charmed by the colorful formal gardens in France. Particularly wonderful are the beds of vegetables (like purple cabbage), as appreciated for their aesthetic perfection as a rainbow of roses. When I stopped to admire some flowers, snapping photos, the dedicated gardeners even tipped their hats at us, a silent thanks for admiring their work.

Perfect swaths of green lawn... Ogle all you want, but don't touch! (Or dare spread out a blanket for sun-bathing. There are ample chairs assembled off-the-grass for your use.)

These days in Paris, folks scoot around on Vélib' bikes-- the fantastic free bicycle program that should be copied in every city worldwide. But I still swear that walking is the best way to take it all in. Wander wherever your feet take you, like a true flâneur, and you'll never know what will appear before your eyes. Like the string of clouds scooting across the sky behind the Panthéon. (Pictured)

Moments like that and I feel compelled to pluck Hemingway's dusty, ear-marked volume from the bookcase: "If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."

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