Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Monday, March 19, 2007

Why Go to the Louvre


I used to avoid the Louvre. When in Paris-- I'd tell myself-- at all costs, don't venture down the escalator inside of that marvelous glass pyramid into the museum's depths. The world's most fabulous art collection, the most visited museum on the planet, it's too daunting... Instead, why not just soak in the views from outside? Pause in front of the fountains, snap photos of the impressive architecture, but don't, whatever you do, stress yourself out by attempting to navigate the sprawling galleries. It would be overwhelming. And all for a small glimpse of the Venus de Milo or Gericault's The Raft of the Medusa.

Oh, how wrong I was. The Louvre is not to be missed. In fact, I could camp out there for days on end and be blissfully happy. But the best time to go is the winter. Temperatures have been mild, and yet, there are no lines, no summer hordes. (And there's even nighttime admission on Fridays!) The Louvre's most famous painting, the Mona Lisa, is yours for the viewing. You can stand and gape to your heart's content with nary an elbow-pushing tourist in sight.

The building alone is worth the trip. Ornately carved ceilings, windows overlooking the Seine, royal furnishings. Head underground to the very foundations of the former-palace and discover another mysterious world: centuries of history unearthed, the medieval fortifications and foundations. It's spooky and cool.



And when you tire of walking through an art history lesson (the collection spans the ages of Western Civilization), there's always the mummies...

Related Articles:
Gridskipper, "Louvre to Louvre You Baby"

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