Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Tuesday, October 03, 2006

Les Francophonies en Limousin



So maybe the grand metropolis of Limoges needs some help with its bus system (and bumper-to-Renault-bumper traffic), but it sure does lure some cool artists for festivals. Les Francophonies en Limousin, the 23rd annual festival in Limoges ongoing from September 26 to October 8 this year, has wowed a packed Opera House with powerful African music, brilliant dance, and theater performances nightly. Pierre and I heard Senegalese Toure Kunda tear it up on stage with an ensemble of incredible musicians. He spoke some moving words about changing the way we think about migration, and the crossing of borders. The vibrant energy of it got the crowd to their feet. Incredibly uplifting. We also saw the dance performace Un champ de forces, with four dancers each from Asia, Africa, and Europe: for Pierre it conjured ideas of man/civilization vs. nature, while I got all pensive about colonialization and the relationship between the continents. I think the choreographer was going for a dischordant, Stravinsky Rite of Spring thing.

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