Pau and the Pyrenees

I can see why Pierre had such a grand old time at University. Pau is the coolest university town, an elegant and cosmopolitan city nestled in the gentle sloping foothills of the Pyrenees. It's blessed with proximity to both the Atlantic coast (for swims on la frontera at Hendaye) and the ski resorts in the surrounding mountains. Along the grand blvd des Pyrenees, the rugged mountain peaks emerge majestically through mist and cloud. Indeed the palm-lined promenade, packed with cafes and trendy bars, seems more reminiscent of Nice than the quiet neighboring villages of France's Southwest. The mayor's had some controversial projects up his sleeve, modernizing the city with some sleek new outdoor malls, and so this vibrant university town, long favored by travelers and wintering Brits for its mild climate and sweeping vistas, has now been transformed into a modern and stylish urban center.

But the best thing about Pau is the lovely Celine, and her man Frank, who hosted us in their awesome new flat (complete with hot tub on a flower-covered deck). We ate a late-night dinner at a local brasserie packed with gregarious patrons til the wee hours. More Spanish than French, really. Though the food was decidedly French: divine steaks slathered in roquefort and/or bearnaise sauce, accompanied by baskets of piping hot fries. Mmmm. I couldn't resist the Ile Flottante for dessert. Followed by some after-dinner drinks at a lively neighborhood bar.