Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Monday, June 26, 2006

A Walk through Limoges at Lunchtime



I've been left to my own devices since Pierre's disappeared to Brussels for a few days. I opted not to tag along (though if it was Barcelona or Rome, I'd pack my bag in a heartbeat). So what's a girl to do, on her own in the Limousin's grand metropolis? (Besides work, that is...) Be a tourist, of course! Today I walked the entire old city at lunchtime, and discovered some gorgeous streets, architectural treasures, and a pleasant botanical garden that sprawls along the top of the old city walls, behind the looming Gothic granite of St. Stephen's cathedral. And I even learned some history about my new city of residence. Limoges was original built on a rocky outcropping above the river Vienne, which was used by the Gallo-Roman population as a refuge from barbarian invaders.

My lunchtime observations could apply, however, to just about every ville in France:
*bedsheets flung out of windows to air
*satellite dishes protruding from the sides of Medieval houses
*closed shops (they won't open again until after the siesta)
*carefully groomed ladies and gentlemen seated promptly at noon at cafes to savor the menu du jour over a two-hour period. (The noon meal, by the way, is the best deal in the world. Multi-courses of the finest French food for a fraction of the price of dinner, though it's usually the same food.)

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