Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Fete de la Musique



The Summer Solstice in France is marked by a massive, nation-wide music festival where musicians (and plenty of wannabes) set up shop in every town and perform in the streets. Every village is guaranteed some sort of musical flair, whether it be a legitimate organized concert or friends singing at the top of their lungs at an outdoor cafe. What a concept.



I didn't expect much from Limoges but was pleasantly surprised to discover that this sleepy city in the middle of nowhere is actually a hotbed for punk and alternative artists. Every nook and cranny, every tiny alley, was occupied by bands and individual artists of varying levels of ability. We wandered through the streets for hours, hopping from show to show and it was a riot. Folks flood the squares and alleys, munching on tasty street food (fried apple pastries, kebabs, sausages, crepes), laughing, singing, watching, dancing. And as the hours fly by-- they get drunker and drunker.

We listened to just about every genre: pop, punk, traditional, church choirs, hip hop, symphony orchestras, acoustic, African drum circles, and even a band of cute old men with accordions, beaming big smiles and ecstatically tapping their shoes (They drew quite a crowd.) La Fete de la Musique is a merry and wonderful ritual. I think all the big US cities should catch on.

2 Comments:

  • At 10:36 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    That's really a pleasure to can read you again... It was too long without any articles on your point of view of our dear french common life ! See you... xxx
    (PS : sorry for my english...)

     
  • At 11:57 AM, Blogger MWN said…

    Marie, thank you so much for your kind support! i have really missed France (especially the fromage and charcuterie and your dear family) and am glad to be back
    much love
    MW

     

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