The Maugein Accordion Factory in Tulle

France is the accordion capital of the world, and the small riverside town of Tulle in the Limousin is the accordion capital of France. Sure, stereotypes abound; the accordion conjures images of 70's style dudes with wavy locks (or dreadful toupees) and glittering jackets embracing flashy, metallic accordions (painted with flowery script) that are larger than the standard piano. And the music. I won't even go there. (But here's where I make the argument that the accordion is tres cool.) In France today, the accordion is wildly popular-- I kid you not-- especially among the youth.

Yes, Pierre is learning to play the thing. And my ears can get tired of the same three screeching songs that sound like the braying of a burro. (The neighbor has kindly hinted that Pierre can easily enroll in the music academy downtown.) But-- because of Pierre-- I've also heard enough classical accordion and folk songs that I now recognize the merits of this complicated instrument.

We went to Tulle last weekend for the annual accordion festival, Nuits de Nacre. As part of the day full of music and entertainment, we took a tour of the renowned Maugein accordion factory, which all groupies and die-hard fans know is the only spot in La Belle France where the entire accordion-- from the wood outside to the tiniest tiny little spring inside-- can be produced at once. And this is no small task. We went from room to room (MW stifling yawns as Pierre snapped two memory cards full of photos/videos) inspecting the entire process. And I must say I developed a lot of respect for these craftsmen.

Get this: the accordions are comprised of 4,000- 8,000 parts (!) The most impressive instrument requires 200 intensive hours of labor, and costs a staggering EUR 9,000.