Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Vieux Lyon



The historic center of Lyon-- full of tiny cobble-stoned alleyways, outdoor cafes and bouchons (the local eateries), and Medieval houses-- is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lyon itself sits at the convergence of two rivers, the Saone and Rhone, its city center, called the Presqu'ile, rising from the peninsula between the rivers. Vieux Lyon is situated on the western bank of the Saone River, a short walk over one of the many modern pedestrian bridges. (Only two of the 28 old bridges remain, after the occupying Germans blew them up when they retreated in 1944.)




In France, no need to carry a map because the tourism infrastructure is so extensive. Just follow the signs to Rue du Boeuf, dominated by ancient, colorful houses with beautiful wooden doors, and Rue Juiverie, the street where most of Lyon's Jewish community lived in the Middle Ages. Along the window ledges on this street, gargoyles and other stone creatures stare down at passers-by.

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