Lost In Limoges

From the sheep-dotted pastures of France's underpopulated Southwest, Limoges rises in all its grey glory. The city's claim to fame: fine porcelain. The half-timbered houses of the Medieval center are surrounded by strip malls and McDo. Land-hungry Brits descend with flailing pocketbooks (thanks, RyanAir). The weather is remarkably cool year-round. Sure, I live on rue de Nice, but this is NOT the Cote d'Azur. Welcome to Limoges, "the middle of nowhere"-- or as Pierre says "everywhere"-- France.

Monday, April 24, 2006

Chocolate Boutiques


[The picture, as you guessed, was not in the chocolate store. But it's pretty darn cute for a window display]

The week after Easter, Pierre and I planned an adventurous outing to the chocolate shop. Since my "office" is all about me, myself, and I, I've been brainstorming little daily adventures to break up my work day. All I wanted was to feast my eyes on the beautiful displays of specialty chocolates. I didn't even need to buy anything, honest. But these shops are exquisite-- heaven-on-earth. A typical Easter display consists of perfectly detailed miniature statues of rabbits and chickens, rich dark chocolate encased in real egg shells, colorful baskets brimming with dainty and delicious treasures. Now, this is the life. (Just when I was mourning the noticeable lack of Cadbury's cream eggs at the supermarket.)

Window-shopping is pleasant enough-- some windows are stacked with whole scenes of marzipan animals. But the best shop, and the only one I will now patronize in Limoges, is where the adorable owner stuffed endless samples of chocolate into my hands: truffles, metallic eggs, white, dark, milk. And she wouldn't stop! I never thought I could get full of the stuff, but I was about to gag. (At some of the other chocolateries, the shop-keepers were stiff-lipped, grumpy, and made it clear that they were ready to close for the evening. Fat chance they were getting my business.) So of course, I ended up buying EUR 15 or so of different chocolates from the generous and smiling shopkeeper, all at a superb after-Easter discount. This could possibly be the best thing about France. The delight in taste, the love of food, taking such pleasure in it-- celebrated in these little boutiques that are such pleasant and beautiful interior spaces in their own right.

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